Being Aware

The Black Sea fleet lease arrangement with Ukraine will end in 2020.  A new Navy base is being built here in Southern Russia.  - message to a friend in 2013

Russia Plans

- July 2007 message to an Uzbek friend living in Moscow

We are indeed going to be in Russia - for one month. Flying out of North Carolina and heading to Moscow, Volgograd, Moscow again, Novograd and St. Petersburg. My dad will also be in St. Petersburg briefly in August.

I agree with you that Vietnam is a fabulous place. Kade and I enjoyed it. Next time you're in SE Asia, be sure to visit Thailand. 

- His response

Hi Allen,

I live in Moscow city and I often travel to our production cite outside of Moscow about 100 km.

Well, you have quite busy schedule in Russia. I guess it's booked through some agency? As I see, you sure will get a sound impression of lifestyle in Russia and its history. Many of objects in your itinerary are not visited even by myself.

Some of it I can show you myself (free of charge). For example, on July 28th you plan to visit Tsaritsino estate and later Kolomenskoye estate. Well, it's near by part of Moscow where I live. So I can take you by my car to look around, have a picnic etc..

By the way, I couldn't find in your itinerary a day when you plan to visit my home and enjoy some Uzbek hospitality!!!

What else I can offer? I have a small country side house away from Moscow. It's located near small city of Chekhov. There I have real Russian bath called "banya", forest, river, lake, BBQ and open fire rice pilov show with tasting of it's outcomes :))) My father also would like to meet you.

Some other thoughts on your visit to Russia:

- Beware that Moscow is one of the most expensive cities in the world by now. So be ready for huge price tags. In St.Pet, prices are about the same but in Volgograd and N. Novgorod are generally lower.

- Be ready for huge traffic jams in Moscow. For example, it takes 1.5 hour for me to travel to my city office and 1 hour out to our production (100 km away from Moscow). 

- Boat trip along Moscow river you going to have on July 28th right? I recommend it.

Cremation Day

May 7, 2019

See Kade? That's durian with sticky rice and coconut cream in one of the images. They also eat mango in the same way...as desserts. Kade said they had two viewings of the body for family - once when she arrived for the water pouring ceremony, and the second just before cremation. A monk also cracked open a coconut and poured it over her dad's corpse. Truly. In Asheville, it would be a craft beer. In John's case, squid ink. Kade will bring some ashes back to Asheville.  - May 9, 2019 e-mail

Kade has sent some very nice photos of the services for her dad, and I was able to view the coffin, temple set-up (like sister's two years ago) via video call, plus talk with Kade, her mom and brother. Kade is very sad, of course, but knows they were very close, and that they loved each other, which is what matters. The father was the youngest of eight children, and the last one to die. He was 73, and died the evening before Kade's departure. Kade only learned of this when she arrived. Since his death ended a generation line, his funeral was a little grander than most. It started with a water pouring ceremony, then five consecutive evenings of chantings by monks. On May 7, he will be cremated. The stoppage between the chanting and cremation was caused by the coronation of the new Thai king, a three-day celebration that will pretty much shut down all other activities. It's the first time in 70 years a royal coronation has taken place in Thailand.  - May 5, 2019 e-mail

Shifting

You have changed a lot - before you were very religious. Of course, the capital of Russian Muslims is Kazan and there are a lot of mosques in this city. There is one in Grozny (Chechnya), the largest in Russia. My family traditionally adheres to Muslim traditions, but not very religious. My father and many in the family were communists, and they are generally atheists. We adhere to the traditions in weddings in funerals in general, but not so much in day to day life. - Uzbek friend

My change was pretty gradual, and it took traveling and lots of questioning, and eventually being willing to shift my views a bit. - me

2015

Scratching the Surface

Peterhof Palace

Catherine Palace

The Hermitage was amazing. So was the Peterhof (summer palace) and the Yusupov Palace, where Rasputin was poisoned. We also ate beef stroganoff in the restaurant at the Stroganoff Palace. St Petersburg, as you know, has countless palaces. Although we were there 9 full days, we barely scratched the surface. I wish we had toured the Catherine Palace and whichever one has the Amber Room.

Here are things we did: took trams and metro, toured the Dostoyevsky apt, visited Pushkin's apt, took a bus tour of the city, walked around the Peter and Paul fortress, saw tombs of Catherine the Great, Peter the Great, the Romanovs, joined a canal tour, ate some really good food, spent a day at Peterhof, explored the Hermitage, walked up and down Nevsky Prospect, etc..   

We were pretty tired after three weeks in Moscow, a pretty amazing city itself. Moscow is not as easy to figure out as St. Pete. Was more challenging.  

- e-mail to friend in 2020

Great Options

We had a great time in Chile and Argentina.  I can see visiting Peru one day.  

My Uber driver yesterday was from Uruguay.  He had lived in New York and different places - now Asheville.  He's nearing retirement, and is trying to talk his wife into moving to Buenos Aires, which is far cheaper than here, and cheaper than Uruguay.  But since it borders Uruguay, he felt it would be a great chance to live out his years closer to his extended family.  Oh, and he asked about Thailand.  He said that would be a great option, too.  He had heard that it attracted retirees.

He also said Argentinians with money buy beach condos in Uruguay, since the beaches there are considered to be more beautiful.

- 2022 message to friend 

Victory Park

source

Kade and I, in 2007, when we were touring a WW2 memorial museum in Moscow, walked by an auditorium filled with older men.  I got curious, and as they were adjourning the meeting, I saw name badges.  They were American names with states where they were from, underneath.  As it turns out, they were veterans of WW2 and were there with their Soviet/Russian counterparts.  We were allies during the war, of course.  This gathering was a chance to exchange stories and celebrate their victory over the AXIS powers. I actually talked with a nice gentleman from Maine.

Bangkok - Things To Do

In 2022, I helped out an Asheville friend who was going to Bangkok.  She had been on a short trip before.

1. Rooftop Bars

If you do all these, you will get the best overall views of the city. Be sure to add Mahanakhon (rooftop and skywalk) to complete this.

Char, Belga, Octave or Tichuca, Vanilla Sky These are all on Sukvumvit Rd and close to the BTS. 

HI-SO, Vertigo & Moon Bar - these would give you a vantage point of the river, plus a view back towards your hotel.

2. Benjakitti Forest Park

Considering its location, I would combine it with a stop for lunch at Terminal 21 mall or at the food market, Ruam Sab.

3. Dancing

Bangkok is well-known for its club scene, plus like in any major international city, you can find music of all types. You will need to do your own research.

Havana Social - If you do Havana Social, you can first stop off at the rooftop bar Above Eleven, which is very close. They serve Japanese/Peruvian cuisine. Remind me to tell you about my experience.

Flamenco

4. Malls

These five are along Sukhumvit Rd and are likely ones you might visit. Besides air-conditioning, these malls are great places to go to look around. They are also great places for food courts and nice restaurants. If you are tired, malls can be an easy way to grab a coffee, meal and rest. These malls also have supermarkets that rival (and surpass ours). So if you are looking for items for your room, you can do some light shopping.

Emquartier - vertical garden, waterfall, rooftop garden

Emporium

Central Embassy

Siam Paragon

Terminal 21

Iconsiam - the newest, most luxurious one along the river, and one you will see from atop Mahanakhon bldg. You could reach iconsiam by BTS, but it's a little tricky. I would not make this mall top priority.

5. Two excellent night markets

I would do both of these - two separate nights. Arrive at 5 pm or so and walk around. Snack, eat and wait for crowds to arrive by 7 pm. These will amaze you. Reachable by BTS. If you only choose one, go with Jodd Fairs.

Jodd Fairs & One Ratchada

6. Mahanakhon Skywalk

I would arrive at the skyscraper BTS station stop a full two hours before sunset. Buy tickets and get on up to the top so that you can for sure be up on the rooftop one hour before sunset. You can get drinks up there. As soon as the sun sets, I would go back to my hotel via BTS and order room service food, or already have foods and snacks waiting there for you, for dinner. And before getting to Mahanakhon, I would make sure to have already had a nice lunch and some afternoon snacks so that you are not hungry when you arrive. More on this later.

7. Oriental Hotel

Get pre-dinner drinks at Bamboo Bar (arrive as soon as they open) and dinner on riverside patio (make reservation for dinner). I think the restaurant is called Verandah. You could always return to Bamboo Bar after dinner to get another drink and enjoy piano music.

8. Temples

Wat Traimit in Chinatown - home of the world's largest solid gold Buddha

Wat Bowonniwet Vihara - near Khao San rd, where at least two kings were monks

Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen - biggest outdoor Buddha in Bangkok

9. Restaurant experiences

Ruam Sab (Asoke Montri Rd) for weekday lunch. I would get there by 10:45 to be ready to order at a food stall by 11 AM. Office workers will pour in by noon. Worth the food and the spectacle.

Food courts - Terminal 21 mall has a great one. I would arrive early to beat the crowd. All malls will have food courts. Great-tasting. Tremendous variety.

Japanese - I would try the great ones that the Japanese expat community enjoy. I can help you come up with possibilities that work best with other things you're doing. You will see lots of chains that are popular with Thais. Still good, but just not the best. There's a great Japanese restaurant near Vanilla Sky Rooftop. I would recommend going to rooftop first, and staying till sunset. When done, exit and walk next door to the Japanese restaurant.

Even though you have been to the Jim Thompson House Museum, I would consider having lunch there on the garden patio. 

For a really good restaurant that is easy to reach off of Sukhumvit Rd, I recommend Sabai Jai. You can exit BTS Ekimai, then walk Soi Ekimai until you reach it. They serve Northeastern thai cuisine, specializing in grilled meats and papaya salads. However, they have everything you'd want in a Thai restaurant. Very popular with locals and expats. The idea is to order 4, 5 or 6 or more plates to share with somebody. I recommend grilled chicken, grilled pork, sticky rice, larb and somtam (maybe regular and fruit). Always good to carry wet ones to clean hands.

10. Khao San Rd and Soi Rambutri

Consider going. I may have to talk with you about this one.

11. Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza for go-go bars. Skip Patpong, since you saw last time. Plus i read that it is being torn down.

12. Massage

Your hotel will likely have a spa with massage. Not going to be the "extras" kind, but will be very good if you're desiring a relaxing vacay. 

Outside the hotel, pretty much anywhere along Sukhumvit, there will be a wide range of massage places, where you can get similar to your hotel massages and other less expensive kinds, plus those with "extras." But even those that offer "extras" doesn't mean you have to get them. These ladies will give amazing massages, with extras or not. I know the massage side of life there, and can give more detailed insight in-person.

13. Klong (canal) boat tour

You could easily do one of these by yourselves, and you would be treated to an interesting part of life in Bangkok. A good tour and boat captain can take you by some amazing temples and markets along the klongs. Keep in mind, this is different than the floating market tour, which i personally would skip. Too touristy and artificial. I can explain more in-person.

Avoid + things you did last time

Lumpini Park

Patpong

Grand Palace

Reclining Buddha

Asiatique

Wat Arun

Temple of Golden Mount

Cinema Paradiso

I was in Tokyo when I first saw this movie.  I had never even heard of it.  Anyway, a cousin and I watched it together.  I tell you: That movie further motivated me to keep on keeping on.

Planting a Seed

I once told a young lady, "No matter what, with English as your native language, so long as you complete your college studies, you can virtually go anywhere overseas and teach English for a year and break even. So don't let money stop you." Then she had that I-doubt-that-could-ever-happen-to-me-look. I just said, "Well, I am from a small Alabama town, and if I can do it, you can." I told her how I had met people overseas who had super thick Southern accents and even were rednecks and hicks, but they found a way. They were learning about themselves, and they had jobs teaching English. Incidentally, this girl had no obvious accent or anything...just had the pressures and doubts that life can cast on you without your consent. Who knows where it will lead? During my travels or early days before I ever really traveled, there were encounters with others that planted a seed. You have to start somewhere.

Trip 2 Hanoi

Here, I was talking with a family friend about former US presidents and trips to Warm Springs, GA (USA) and Hanoi, Vietnam.

LBJ also had a depressive streak, and would sink into long periods of self-loathing and doubt. Apparently his last years in Texas were very melancholic. FDR, on the other hand, was with his lovely mistress in Warm Springs when his days ended. I enjoyed Warm Springs, btw. interestingly enough, while on a trip to Hanoi with my wife in 2006, I saw Ho Chi Minh's home retreat. Although Asian decor, it reminded me in some ways of FDR's Warm Spring house and grounds. I went through Headland public schools and Samford, yet never even knew Ho Chi Minh was a name, much less a human being. Had no idea. Funny how history gets suppressed.  - 2020 e-mail

Ho Chi Minh's Stilt House

Quite an Adventure

1959

Notice name of hotel in London, the stop in Oxford, the train journey from Moscow to Kiev. It was quite an adventure for my grandfather, Major Espy, who would have been 52 at the time.

Sweet & Warm

Timour & his grandparents

Timour (end of table), his grandmother (next to me)

I miss you mom and your grandparents. As I shared before, on my return trip to Uzbekistan in 1998, one of my students went with me to visit your grandmother. As he interpreted and translated, your grandmother sat there and held my hand as she reminisced about your time in the USA and my early visit and extended stay in Tashkent. She was so sweet and warm, in her facial expressions and her words!

- message to Timour in 2013

Experiences

This is an e-mail reply I made to a friend who has a lot of unique travel experiences.  We were talking about the pressure to make money and the forfeiture of living well as a result of pursuing the almighty dollar. 

We all need money...up to a point.  But there are a lot of people accumulating much, following the herd and seemingly not enjoying life.  There's a price to pay for pursuit of riches.  It may be a lack of sleep, job you don't like, long commute, family that hates you, etc..  but walking around Tokyo or sleeping in a yurt in Mongolia, all the money won't make that happen if people don't have the time or sense of adventure.  And those experiences surpass all the excess possessions in my book.

Didn't Materialize

This is a message I sent to a friend describing my travel plans for the following year.  I get really into planning!  Although I ended up altering the plans quite significantly, I do like this idea.

We're actually returning a year from now rather than wait a year and a half. In fact, my Alabama cousin, my age, hopes to meet me in Singapore. We will spend several days there, then work our way north through Kuala Lumpur, Cameron Highlands (where Jim Thompson went missing) and Penang. These Malaysian stops will be to try durian, which will be in peak season then. I hope to try many varieties. After two weeks in Singapore and Malaysia, we will go to Koh Samui and Koh Phangan for another week, just to relax. Once done there, we will take the train to the new Bang Sue Grand station in Bangkok. I will meet Kade there, and will stay another 3-4 weeks.   

Tashkent Earthquake of 1966

Exploring

Hotel National - Moscow

This is the hotel where Granddad Major stayed in 1959 - view looking out at Red Square. Kremlin is to the right. The glass domes you see along pavement are skylights for a huge underground mall. We enjoyed exploring it. Ate in the food court. If you and I go one day, we could fly to St. Petersburg, tour it some, then take a high speed or overnight train to Moscow, tour it a bit, then jump on the trans-mongolian railway for Beijing, China.  

- message to my cousin in Jan. 2021

King of Rooftop Bars

I shared this statement with a few people yesterday, regarding rooftop bars in Bangkok:

"And the # of rooftop bars is growing.  Several years ago, when the rooftop bar concept was taking off worldwide, Bangkok stepped up and said, "We're going to be tops."  There are other megacity skylines that are bigger and more impressive, but Bangkok has a large land area and the skyline spreads out, making potentially any highrise rooftop an ideal spot for amazing views.  Then there's that iconic river and those glistening temples down below. I have only been to 5 or 6 rooftop bars in Bangkok, but certainly plan on going to more. Who wants to join? 

- e-mail to a friend in July 2019

Since 2019, my Bangkok rooftop bar # has skyrocketed to 89.  And this year, 2026, I will get to 100.

Momentum

We have been in Bangkok 11 full days. But since I stayed in 4 days due to sinus infection, I have only been out doing things 7 days. So, 7 full days, 15 rooftop bars + 55th floor coffee bar and a sky beach club bar. Two massages. 15 mocktails. Two alcoholic drinks. 

- e-mail from August '24

Street Interviews

He's on Khao San Rd in Bangkok, talking with people from Chile, France, Hungary, Australia, USA and Italy.  I like the first man, and the solo female traveler from Chile.  Wow.  Great advice.