Crème Rises

This is where the thinker Satre formulated his pholosophy and penned his thoughts.

The cafe culture of Paris is the Crème-de-la-Crème. My mom says my granddad Victor's ancestors were either from France or passed through en route to America. I must start researching!

Dining With Locals

Mark and I had dinner with Merete and Jean-Loup, who own a trendy furniture store, Galerie Dansk, in the Le Marais (Paris).  Mark had gotten to know them actually, and introduced me to them.  M&J travel to Thailand very frequently, and say it's one of their favorite places.  In this photo, Merete and I are jostling over a plate of baklava.  This restaurant experience was pretty amazing.  There's a chance I may meet up with M&J later this summer in Bangkok.

Some of the photos below came from this site.  Here's an article that mentions Galerie Dansk.  And to learn the art of Making Friends (and Dinner) in Paris, click here.

That looks like Merete inside!

An invitation to a party they had.

And fairly recent, an Asheville, NC (USA) friend met Jean-Loup at my request! 

Asheville friend meets up with Jean-Loup in Paris

Jean-Loup & Merete on one of their many trips to Thailand

On this this day they went by the Jim Thompson House, where Kade once worked.  They took this photo with one of Kade's former colleages.  Jim Thompson is behind!

Paris Impresses!

Paris was fantastic!  It's hard for any city I've seen to match its culture and architecture.  My brother and I stayed in a very historical and gorgeous part of the city - the Marais.  I also found the people to be very friendly, especially if you tried speaking a bit of French.  The idea that Parisians are rude is something I just didn't notice.  Maybe my years of traveling have taught me to disprove stereotypes!  The most interesting part of Paris was the cafe life and all it entails. Cafe Cremes are outstanding!  I actually did a literary/philosopher walking tour and saw sights where Sartre sipped coffee, smoked cigars and debated.  I saw the apartments where Hemingway, Fitzgerald and Orwell spent time while writing some of their famous works.  I visited the famous bookstore Shakespeare and Company.  Paris overall made a big impression.  I had been before, but just didn't know how to appreciate it.  My brother is still in Paris and writes interesting e-mails every few days.  - from an e-mail I sent to friends after my return to Bangkok from a two-week trip to Paris

For some impressive interactive panorama photos of Paris, click here.

I  met a cool man - about 80 years old - in a cafe in Paris.  He was Scottish.  He told me how easy it would be to take a train from Paris all the way to Scotland.  It sounded appetizing.

Eating in le Marais

My brother Mark is getting ready to order falafel in the le Marais district of Paris. Mark has taken two month-long trips to Paris. Actually, the first Paris trip included a channel train ride to London, where he stayed a few days. According to him, "Paris runs circles around London." On his second trip to Paris, I flew from Bangkok and joined him.

This photo is taken from the New York Times series, 36 Hours in Paris. Mark sent this link to me after quickly identifying it as the falafel "booth" above.

Allen and I have waited in this line for a delicious fresh falafel in the Jewish sector of le Marais in Paris. The Marais is the oldest section of Paris with winding, narrow cobblestone streets like the one pictured here.  Mark

Mark's e-mails to me about Paris in August/September 2004.

Allen, Paris and London .... here I come.

Located on the left bank, the 6th arrondissement is known as the St. Germain des Pres and has always been regarded as an intellectual center with many writers, artists and creative people living there. To the east lies the 5th arrondissement known as the Latin Quarter and across the Seine is Marias (the 4th), with the islands in the Seine actually shared by the lst and 4th arrondissements and known as Ile St-Louis, which is where Norte Dame Cathedral calls home.

As the heart of Medieval Paris, Lower Marias sits next to the Seine and is covered with trendy restaurants, bars and clubs, so head for "confessions" the next morning at Notre Dame to discuss your about last night sins ... but for me, I'll hit a sidewalk cafe to get my day started off right with a cup of strong Java and a hearty breakfast. Upper Marias, with its neighborhoods to the north, is home to The Village St. Paul, which is huge antique enclave if choose to browse.

I'll keep you posted.

Later.

Mark

PS - Here's my email below asking about a studio apartment rental .... that looks stunning.

Bonjour.  This is a great looking apartment with tons of old world, French charm with a great location near Luxembourg Gardens.
And, the St. Germain looks like it will easily be one of my favorite district in Paris.

Your ad mentions 400 euros per week. Is that for 6 or 7 nights? Is it available beginning Saturday night, Sept 11 through Friday night, Sept 17?

I would probably get there around Noon on Sat. My plans would be to leave Sat, Sept 18 and ! head to London on the Eurostar.

I'm researching my options for the best weekly rate possible on small studio apartments in Paris.

Merci,

Mark

Allen, Bonjour ...Eurostar is the one that speeds under the English Channel .... it travels at a very, very fast pace .... and reaches Waterloo Station in London in only 2.5 hours from Paris.  I may stay for two weeks in Paris and 4 or 5 days in London .... not sure yet.  Trying to nail down my plans ...may head over sooner .... like Labor Day weekend .... Friday, 9/3 .... I could fly out on Friday evening non-stop from Atl to Paris and be there in time to enjoy a leisurely "brunch" on Saturday at a casual sidewalk cafe a block away from my pad.

 

Mark

Allen, Bonjour ...Paris is truly incredible and so is my apartment at rue, 8 Robert Leopold.  The number of outdoor corner cafes, bars, movie theatres, bakeries, bookstores, music stores around my neighborhood alone is amazing .... not to mention the endless neighborhoods in the all Paris' 20 arrondisements (districts).  Cathedral Notre Dame, on located on one of Paris two island arrondisements is considered the "center" of the city by its original planners and Paris the city is said to extend 6 miles in all directions from Notre Dame. 

 

The foods, wine and caffe or coffee are much to my liking.  Cafe de la Place is my favorite neighborhood corner outdoor for the perfect espresso and people watching ...

 

Hitler hated Paris' beauty so much that he had a master plan to blow up all of its key bridges and monuments ... thank goodness for the German soldier Choltiz who simply could not stomach Paris being destroyed and tipped off the Allies who thwarted Hitler's plan just in time.  The most beautiful bridge crossing the Seine is named Bridge Alexander III, mirrored exactly after a bridge in St. Petersburg named for the great Czar ..... the 1893 Franco-Russian alliance.

 

People here are friendly and beautiful.   I purchased some stylish jeans and three shirts from a store in Marias.  Philip (the sales guy) gave me some great tips on fashion and the nearby bars and hang outs.

 

Later,

 

Mark

Paris Metro is killer .......... rich in character ..... my favorite ..... you must pay attention,

but once you master the basics of navigating under ground .... it's easy. All lines are color coded and numbered ...... Paris .... the greatest city in the world !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Mark

I came across this little coffee house just north of the Bastille on Boulevard Beaumarchais.
There only location .... a new start up I could tell .... perhaps too over the top for the traditional Parisians who have visited the same barista for the past 20 years at the cafe bar of their favorite neighborhood cafe. But, I did think "Coffee and Friends" was worth noting.  Two levels.  Bright sunny colors ..... rich orange was the main color ..... upside down orange and white coffee cups and saucers attached served as the perfect window lighting .... and they had a large brown coffee bean bag from Latin America serving as the "door opener" to let the fresh air into from the well traveled sidewalk ..... I noticed a number of Parisians gawking at they walked by. 

Old black and white Hollywood photos of Marilyn Monroe, Frank Sinatra and others graced the bright orange walls. Floor was polished concrete downstairs I think ..... Upstairs there was more comfortable seating, a juke box with 1950's, 1960's and 1970's American pop hits .... bring me Elvis and Donna Summer .... what a winning combo to help the younger Parisian crowds unwind.  They did have some photos of recent in-house events .... perhaps a grand opening ...that showed the place packed with young guests ..... not the typical crowd you'd find at the cafe bar on the corner.

The shop was being manned by two Parisians  .... one who could speak English and one who could not.

Coffee and Friends
23, Bd Beaumarchais
Mark

Le Marais

What seems like yesterday, my brother Mark, seen ordering in photo one and hanging out in the background in photo two, introduced me to Moroccan cuisine in the historical Le Marais district of Paris. It was just down the road from us, and boy was I grateful! The food was scrumptious! Fluffy couscous was the base, and on top were hearty entrees that were rich in fragrant North African spices. Lamb and chicken seemed to be the proteins of choice, and most dishes were very exotic and flavorful without the fiery spices that tend to scare away many Americans. This was comfort food at its finest. We simply pointed to the dishes we wanted, paid by the gram, sat at outdoor tables and savored every bite. There was no reason to rush through dinner. Besides, it was paired with a perfect glass of wine, usually selected by the family's wine connoisseur, Mark. For dessert, I always liked baklava. Nothing I've tried before or since has come close to theirs.

For my Thai friends, I figured the best way to share the moment was to give the friendly Moroccan-Frenchman a crisp 20 baht bill. I think it did the trick!

The Le Marais was also the district where Jim Morrison stayed for four months in 1971.  Sadly, he also died in Paris, in his Le Marais apartment with his long-time girlfriend.  Morrison is buried in Paris.