Car City

When Kade's brother met us at the airport in Bangkok and walked us to his car, I noticed countless parking violations that would easily get you a ticket or towed in the US: double parking, blocking walking areas, etc.. And they allow way beyond capacity into the garages. Craziness. Driving or riding along with somebody can age the fuck out of you. Plus, who wants to waste that much time? I would choose a studio apt near the BTS rather than drive an hour into the city.  We know people with nice, modern homes...they drive long distances to those semi or fully-gated communities. No thank you.

Experiences

This is an e-mail reply I made to a friend who has a lot of unique travel experiences.  We were talking about the pressure to make money and the forfeiture of living well as a result of pursuing the almighty dollar. 

We all need money...up to a point.  But there are a lot of people accumulating much, following the herd and seemingly not enjoying life.  There's a price to pay for pursuit of riches.  It may be a lack of sleep, job you don't like, long commute, family that hates you, etc..  but walking around Tokyo or sleeping in a yurt in Mongolia, all the money won't make that happen if people don't have the time or sense of adventure.  And those experiences surpass all the excess possessions in my book.

Didn't Materialize

This is a message I sent to a friend describing my travel plans for the following year.  I get really into planning!  Although I ended up altering the plans quite significantly, I do like this idea.

We're actually returning a year from now rather than wait a year and a half. In fact, my Alabama cousin, my age, hopes to meet me in Singapore. We will spend several days there, then work our way north through Kuala Lumpur, Cameron Highlands (where Jim Thompson went missing) and Penang. These Malaysian stops will be to try durian, which will be in peak season then. I hope to try many varieties. After two weeks in Singapore and Malaysia, we will go to Koh Samui and Koh Phangan for another week, just to relax. Once done there, we will take the train to the new Bang Sue Grand station in Bangkok. I will meet Kade there, and will stay another 3-4 weeks.   

Old Town Activities

This was an itinerary I put together for a relative who was possibly going to spend some days in Bangkok's Old Town before meeting back up with me for a trip south.

June 23 (Fri)

*Check-in hotel
*Enjoy Khao San Rd and Soi Rambuttri in the evening or grab food on the street and recover at hotel.
*You could always sneak out for a massage.

June 24 (Sat)

*Walk to Loha Prasat Temple - I would get there by 4:30 PM.  Leave by 5:15 for Wat Saket, which is nearby.
*Wat Saket (Golden Mount Temple) - I would be up top by 6 PM latest, then wait for sunset
*Thipsamai for Pad Thai
*Mont Nom Sod for custard
*Walk back
*Enjoy Khao San Rd and neighboring Soi Rambuttri (gets going at 8 PM, young Thais, international backpackers, etc)

June 25 (Sun)

*Take a ferry across the river to Wang Lang Market - street food and local restaurants
*Walk to nearby Wat Rakhang (Temple of Bells)
*ferry back
*tour Wat Bowonniwet Vihara (closes at 5 PM)
*tour Wat Chana Songkram (closes at 5 PM)
*dinner on Soi Rambuttri

June 26 (Mon)

*Grand Palace (walk there) - earlier you can start, the better.  2 hours
*Ferry over to Wat Arun (tour it) 1 hour
*Ferry back across, then walk back to hotel - leisurely walk, places to eat and shop  2 hours

June 27 (Tues)

*Iconsiam (take a boat there, way down the river) - I would have lunch at Iconsiam and leave there by 3 or 4 PM.  Kade and I might meet you here, then help you get on the ferry back.
*Ferry back across the river, then walk along the river, basically redoing the walk we did together.

June 28 (Wed)

*The Giant Swing - get there 3 PM
*Wat Suthat - 1 hour
*Wat Ratchabophit - 1 hour
*Chinatown - check out the two Taoist temples, eat some street food - 2 hours
*Walk back

June 29 (Thurs)

*We will take a train to Sam Roi Yat - hopefully late morning or early afternoon

Exploring

Hotel National - Moscow

This is the hotel where Granddad Major stayed in 1959 - view looking out at Red Square. Kremlin is to the right. The glass domes you see along pavement are skylights for a huge underground mall. We enjoyed exploring it. Ate in the food court. If you and I go one day, we could fly to St. Petersburg, tour it some, then take a high speed or overnight train to Moscow, tour it a bit, then jump on the trans-mongolian railway for Beijing, China.  

- message to my cousin in Jan. 2021

King of Rooftop Bars

I shared this statement with a few people yesterday, regarding rooftop bars in Bangkok:

"And the # of rooftop bars is growing.  Several years ago, when the rooftop bar concept was taking off worldwide, Bangkok stepped up and said, "We're going to be tops."  There are other megacity skylines that are bigger and more impressive, but Bangkok has a large land area and the skyline spreads out, making potentially any highrise rooftop an ideal spot for amazing views.  Then there's that iconic river and those glistening temples down below. I have only been to 5 or 6 rooftop bars in Bangkok, but certainly plan on going to more. Who wants to join? 

- e-mail to a friend in July 2019

Since 2019, my Bangkok rooftop bar # has skyrocketed to 89.  And this year, 2026, I will get to 100.

Momentum

We have been in Bangkok 11 full days. But since I stayed in 4 days due to sinus infection, I have only been out doing things 7 days. So, 7 full days, 15 rooftop bars + 55th floor coffee bar and a sky beach club bar. Two massages. 15 mocktails. Two alcoholic drinks. 

- e-mail from August '24

Street Interviews

He's on Khao San Rd in Bangkok. Talks with people from Chile, France, Hungary, Australia, USA and Italy.  I like the first man, and the solo female traveler from Chile.  Wow.  Great advice.

Egg Tarts

These are Portuguese egg tarts.  Believe it or not, we tried some in Bangkok, in a multi-story Japanese dept store (Isetan).  One floor had a bakery that served these tarts.  As it turns out, the custard tarts originated in Portugal, and they made it to Thailand via Portuguese merchants, missionaries and gov't officials.  Macau (today, part of China) was one of their Asian colonies, and so also likely the Chinese brought these recipes south to Thailand, which has a very sizable (and wealthy) ethnic Chinese population.  When I was last in Bangkok, I found at least one stand-alone bakery specializing in these treats. Globalization has pretty much always been around.  - 2019 e-mail

Things I Picked Up

I was telling someone once that one of the keys to life, if you travel a lot, is to incorporate what you can into your life back home.  If you see something intriguing or fascinating, ask yourself if it's possible to make that part of your everyday life once you return.  

Shoes off at door - Asia

Matcha - Japan

Espresso machine - Italy

Massage - Europe & Asia 

Chopsticks - Asia

Artwork - all over

Use of one car - many places

Squat toilet - Asia

Hang-drying clothes - Asia

Massage - Asia

Sauna - Europe & Asia

Authentic Meals - many places

They Know

The best thing about traveling is trying all the world's foods. Kade loved the Uzbek restaurants in Moscow, and we ate some Georgian food in St. Petersburg. Even Russian cuisine, which I didn't think would be delicious, actually was. The key thing is to try many things and eat like the locals. They know. In Southeast Asia, especially somewhere like Thailand, the food is unmatched in variety, freshness and flavors. It was like heaven on earth, and foods I grew up on were suddenly a bit boring. - message to an Uzbek friend in 2020

Bangkok Positives

I could add plenty more, but these stand out.  The question might be: Would these be enough to make it worthwhile to return back and live there?

• durian & fruits in general

• food in general (taste, variety, availability)
• MRT & BTS, and various modes of travel
• night markets (food options, again)
• the heat and humidity and what it does to maintaining a healthy body weight and sleeping well at the end of the day
• eye candy everywhere
• stimulation from the buzz of street life
• temples and other cultural aspects unfamiliar to Westerners
• cost of living

• massages
• rooftop bars
• proximity to other Asian countries and the ease of traveling to them

I could add more, and it's worth brainstorming over beer.

Walking

Arrived safely to Bangkok.  Believe it or not, got up this AM at 8 o'clock and walked 6 miles around the city.  Probably will walk 4 more before the day is over.

and the next day

Central World had a fabulous Japanese festival today. Sushi being sliced (off a fresh fish) and boxed right in front of my eyes! Walked another 6 miles today. Legs are aching and longing for R&R!

- These bits are from e-mails to my dad and friend (Kyoko).  It was late January 2011.  I have always been full of energy upon arrival in Bangkok.  The jet lag really throws me off.  The antidote: walking as much as possible.

 

What We Did

Day 1 (Sat)

Walk Polanca (5 hours)

Take metro there - station Polanca 

See website route

Eno - breakfast

Parque Lincoln - food festival, The Aviary 

Back to Airbnb to rest

Walk Southern portion of Roma Sur 

Dinner at Serenna Cafe

Day 2 (Sun)

Walk rest of Roma Sur

Mercado El Farmers Market

Lamb tacos for lunch

Rest at Airbnb

Walk Roma Norte

Tacos or seafood for dinner

Day 3 (Mon)

Walk Condesa 

Lunch in Condesa

Rest

Return to spots in Roma Sur and Roma Norte

Day 4 (Tues)

Anthropology Museum (w/ guide)

9 AM opens

2-3 hours

Lunch at museum

More Anthropology museum

Rest

Day 5 (Wed)

Walk Historic Center

Zocalo, Metropolitan Cathedral (1 hour), National Palace (murals, go early, take passports), Templo Mayor museum (3 hours)

Back to rest or

Palacio de Bellas Artes

Alameda Central

Day 6 (Thurs)

Teotihuacan tour

Day 7 (Fri)

Walk Coyoacán

Breakfast

Trotsky Museum 10:00 AM

Lunch

Walk

Frida Museum 3:15 PM (2 hours)

Dinner

Day 8 (Sat)

Chapultepec Castle - 2-3 hours

Buy tickets at base at 9 AM, then walk up

Lunch

Rest

Day 9 (Sun)

Day 10 (Mon)

Day 11 (Fly home)

Bangkok Itinerary

I put these ideas together for someone who had already done a lot of cool things in BKK.  He was just going to be in the Thai capital for another stretch.

Day 1

Chinatown  - There's a temple with a solid gold Buddha at entrance to Chinatown: Wat Traimit.  Closes at 5 PM.  Chinatown gets going 6 PM and after.  If you want to enjoy some bars in Chinatown, Teens of Thailand and Asia Today are very popular.

After Chinatown: Soi Cowboy.

Day 2

Wat Arun - opens at 8 AM
Grand Palace - opens at 8:30
(Make sure to also go inside Wat Phra Kaew on the Grand Palace.  Contains the Emerald Buddha).
Wat Pho (Reclining Buddha) - opens at 8 AM

I would for sure carry a full water bottle and wear sun screen and hat.

Evening: Nana Plaza and Thermae.

Day 3

Terminal 21 for souvenirs and food court for dinner, followed by a massage on Soi 23 and maybe a last stop at Soi Cowboy.

Day 4

MBK shopping

Belga Rooftop Bar (best by 6 PM) - between Asoke and Nana BTS stations.

Kiss Massage after Belga.

Day 5

Mahanakhon Sky Walk - take BTS there.  Best to arrive by 5:30, get ticket, then get to top. Leave hotel no later than 5 pm, possibly 4:45). Stay till sunset (6:45 pm).  Wear sun hat.  Best 360 views of Bangkok.

This Decade

These are countries I can imagine visiting.  The three with an X by them are upcoming.

Luxembourg x

Denmark x

Belgium x

Norway

Sweden

Brazil

Uruguay

Turkey

Ireland

Philippines 

Colombia

Peru

Greece

Croatia

Romania

Just Took It

On a tiny median in the middle of busy Sukhumvit rd, a crazy man caught me taking a double-look (innocent, curious look) and then proceeded to walk quickly after me while shouting.  Happened very quickly.  He was wild...you know the occasional street person in Bangkok that's shirtless, caked in dirt and has almost a caveman look?  He was wide-eyed, like he was on yaba.  For a second, I thought I might have to fight him.  I quickly noticed, though, that he had no weapon.  He walked right up to me and kicked me in the ass - kid you not.  He then turned and walked away, shouting and eyes still on me.  I said nothing.  Just took it.  The alternative was to potentially be in a life and death struggle on a busy road with a man who has nothing to lose. Although embarrassed and a bit in shock, i just walked on.  It was the only time in five years in Thailand i ever felt threatened.  Granted the guy was probably just 5'6", but jacked up on yaba, he thought he was 8 ft tall.  Luckily he had no weapon.  In the end, i was proud i walked away unscathed.  Moral of story: Don't look a second time at a crazy person.

Packing Notes

source

These are tips I gave to a relative who was traveling for the first time to Southeast Asia.  It was going to be the early part of the rainy season.

*Pants - Hiking pants are great: wrinkle-free, roll-up, breathable, easy to dry and wash, casual but nice enough to pass for restaurants that have a dress code.  A big mistake would be to take blue jeans of any type or thick cargo pants or thick shorts.  You could take a pair of khakis if you want to dress a bit nicer at times.  

*Shirts - Golf shirts are great (for same reason as the pants).  The collar on those shirts helps you get into rooftop bars.  T-shirts are still fine.  I would go lighter colors to not attract sun.  T-shirts with cool designs and logos you can easily buy over there.  And so cheap.  You can get them in Bangkok or in the mountains or at beach.  And then you don’t have to take any from here.  The nicer stuff, though, like your pants and collared shirts, can be bought over there, but size could be tougher to get, and can be pricey.  Last trip i didn't even carry a t-shirt, except to sleep in.  Cotton tees get so hot now, and i sweat a lot in them.  The easy-dry golf type shirts are the way i go.  So comfy.

*Shoes - a very good pair of walking shoes.  I have New Balance.  Swear by them.  I walk 20-25 miles a week in Asheville and replace my shoes every 3-4 months.  Also, i have a very comfy tan pairs of loafers that are also great for walking and look nice for restaurants and what not.  I will wear them with my hiking pants that are versatile enough to be smart casual.

*Socks - the socks runners and hikers use are great - very durable, but not very thick. You might end up handwashing them. 

*Rain jacket - very little or no insulation, easy roll-up, maybe something you can easily carry in your shoulder bag.  You can buy umbrellas over there if you want to stay drier.

*Swimwear for the beach.  Something comfy enough to perhaps even wear on scooter when you ride around.  I wouldn't worry about flip-flops.  You can buy there.  Also, your loafers will come in handy.  I can wear them with my swimsuit and t-shirt ( or golf shirt).  My collared shirts and loafers will do for me at the beach. 

*Shorts for the beach - might be smart to bring a pair or two.  Sometimes i think a single pair works, and rotate the shirts with them.

*Wallet - just one that has some slots for cards and docs, place for money.  Not too big, cause you may want to keep it in your front pockets from time to time.  Even in Asheville, I keep my wallet in front pocket.  Gotten so used to it.  Plus, when i sit, i don't have an object to sit on.  Lol

*Readers - If you use readers, i would carry a backup pair.  You can still get them over there.

*Toiletries - I try to get creative.  You can buy everything over there.  But to get through airports and first few days, i make take travel sizes from here.   Toothbrush, small toothpaste, small deodorant i will take.  We can talk about all this.   I buy foam shaving cream there.  I just try to keep it smart b/c i don't want an overstuffed bag.  I shave my head and face every few days there.  If you need clippers, i would get battery-powder. You will also find barbers there who can do whatever you desire...and inexpensive. 

*Medication - over-the-counter stuff, easy to find over there.  But i take a small amount of tums, advil, cough drops, etc...just to get me there.  7-11 and pharmacies are everywhere.

*A small bottle of cologne or one that's almost empty might be good to take.  Finish it and leave the bottle.  Dab here, dab there.  You can also buy over there.   You will be in a sweaty environment around lots of folks.  So if you have a favorite cologne, why not bring it? Lol

*Sun hats - definitely have one or two with wide brims.  You can wear a baseball cap, too, but won't keep the sun off your face and back of neck.  But baseball caps are fairly popular there.  I even see Asian girls wearing them.  More of a fashion thing.

*I don't wear a watch and wear no rings or necklaces.  More to manage.  I keep it simple.

*You'll probably end up handwashing some socks, undies and even a favorite pair of pants or a shirt.  However, we will go to laundromats and/or pay somebody to do our laundry.  Usually very cheap.  That's another reason, though, why you don't want to carry expensive brands.  Could get damaged, or even lost.  Things happen.

The Yusupov Palace

 The Yusupov Palace: One of St. Petersburg’s most splendid mansions (PHOTOS)

In the basement was where Rasputin was poisoned.  We toured this mansion.  Very impressive.

Airbnb or Hotels?

I have used Airbnb for at least six years, on trips to Highlands (NC), Headland (AL), Florence, Paris, Amsterdam, Granada, Seville, Ronda, Lisbon, Porto, Maine, Charleston, etc..  Better rates than hotels for the same quality or higher.  - note to a friend in 2022

I have recently have had more hotel experiences - in Madrid and Sydney, for example.  

Which would you choose?  And why?

A Real Taste

May be true...all of that.  And yet there may be many more negatives than you could imagine. The only way to get a real taste is to live in a place for a period of time.  Only then could your perceptions and opinions get really tested.  I know many travelers who end up living in different cultures ....women, men, young and old.  Ursula, Bjorn, Kyoko, Jessie, Mark and countless more.  I want to be able to add you!  

- 2019 e-mail to someone in response to insight they had gleaned from a trip to Berlin

One of my goals in life has been to encourage others to go live overseas for a while.  A year is a good start!  If you can't go overseas, why not to another state or another part of your country?

Travel Cred

Click here for the interview.

A friend I exchanged opinions about some of the topics discussed.  She's in gold.

Good insights, I thought. He described the Japanese train experience perfectly! 

Interesting, too, how the life of a salaryman is described.  Sounds super stressful.  Another example of how we look at things through the eyes of expats and tourists, yet everyday life could be hell.  I will say, I give you a hard time (in some cases, very justified lol) for quick trips and not doing things, BUT the fact you walked through the Shinjuku area, got on those trains, and jostled with the maddening crowds, you get major travel cred.  Everybody needs that rush.  Impressed.

Thanks for that! I am so glad that I spent that time in Japan! Really an amazing place in many ways, though not perfect, as he said.

The best part about traveling is that you can see the great stuff going on in the world and maybe incorporate it into your life, wherever you are.  Another good thing is seeing the bad parts and better appreciating what you have.

Theft Stories

Trying to think of overseas places where I had things stolen: blue jeans from a second floor clothes line in Tashkent; a camera that I foolishly put down for five minutes in Moscow; and a camcorder, Walkman and camera in a bag in a Prague metro station (again put down and walked away).

I never had anything stolen in Thailand.  And despite hearing about Lisbon, which scored lowest in the lost wallet experiment, nothing ever happened.  Also, I was worried more about the possibility of something getting stolen in Santiago, but nothing occurred.

Recently, I received a few "Is it safe?" messages from American friends who learned we were going to Mexico City.  Nothing happened.  Nothing was stolen.  However, at Atlanta's airport, on our report, my smartphone was taken.  Anyway.

Country Estates

5 Country Estates that DEFINED Russia's best writers

I would not mind also visiting Pushkin's country estate.  On our trip to Russia years ago, we toured Tolstoy's city mansion in Moscow.  Then in St. Petersburg, we toured Dostoyevsky's apartment museum and Pushkin's home.  Alexander Pushkin was the "Father of Russian literature." - note to a friend in 2020

Hinoki Land

source

Hinoki Land: A Japanese Architecture Replica in Chiang Mai

Imagine how much that cost!  Looks very well built.  I wish we could do something like this on our land in South Alabama.  Sadly, would be too foreign!  One great thing about Thailand is that they experiment.  If you can't go to Japan, enjoy a piece in your own backyard. 

- e-mail to friend in 2019

Small Bangkok Park

 

It's not far from the Grand Palace and Khao San Rd.  I've thought about going down there very early one morning (6 or 7 AM), then going to a couple of historic coffee shops.  I may try it this year.

"Vegas of the East"

Not sure what new Macau is - I guess an area they are hoping to build up to a Vegas level.  When I was there in 2002, it was already known that Macau was the "Vegas of the East." However, as you know from traveling to Las Vegas itself, it's a monumental stretch to put the two in the same category.  I remember a few nice casinos with smoky lounges and floors.  But the surrounding areas were kind of like Kowloon, at least in some places.  If smart, and with all the money they have, China will make a new Macau - probably more of what you're seeing.  Lots of buildings need to be torn down.  Hope it can rival Vegas, but Las Vegas is special, as you know.  

- comments to a friend who was traveling around Macau and Hong Kong in 2018

Yarowat Advice

Some advice I gave to someone in Dec. '22 about Chinatown (Yarowat) in Bangkok:

Chinatown is worth a 4 pm - late day, and possibly another day.  4 would be when you leave your room.  I think bangkok areas are ideal for walking around and hour two before sunset, then remaining another hour or two.  The street restaurants in Chinatown won't be buzzing until 6 pm or after.  You could eat, then explore some side roads (sois) and bars.  Take MRT and BTS there and back.  Taxi drivers in Chinatown (and Khao San), especially late at night, might scam you.

Mexico City - First Full Day

 

Mexico City - 2nd Day