Leaving Central Asia

After finishing up in Central Asia, I began a 30-day trip around Eastern Europe.  I first landed in Moscow (Russia), which gave me a chance to visit Red Square and Alexander Garden.  From there, I flew to Helsinki (Finland), where I stayed a few days.  At that point, the plan was to take a hydrofoil to Tallinn (Estonia), then go by train to Riga (Latvia), Vilnius (Lithuania) and Warsaw (Poland).  And from Warsaw, I would take a train to Prague (Czech Republic), where I would meet my great-uncle from Headland, Alabama, so we could continue traveling.  We bounced around the Czech Republic, Austria and Hungary.  It was amazing!  Under categories in the right sidebar, find Eastern Europe Trip 1995 to read about the whole journey.

All the photos above are obviously of Moscow.   Then, for whatever reason, in my album I moved ahead to Riga, Latvia.  So the rest of the photos are just of Riga.  The guy with me is named Alex, and he was Latvian.  I met him on the train from Tallinn to Riga.  Once we got to Riga, he gave me a short walking tour.

Eastern Europe Trip, 1995

View Larger Map

In the Spring of '95, once my teaching contract in Tashkent had ended, I embarked on a solo trip around Eastern Europe.  I first flew from Tashkent to Moscow, where I simply changed planes for my direct flight to Helsinki, Finland, a city I had visited briefly (w/ others ESIers) before arriving in Uzbekistan in the late summer of '94.  So, this Eastern Europe journey actually got started in Helsinki, a place I was a tad familiar with.  I will write about these destinations in coming weeks.

Unless otherwise noted, travel between destinations was by train.

Helsinki, Finland
Tallinn, Estonia -  arrived by hydrofoil
Riga, Latvia
Vilnius, Lithuania
Belarus  - passed through
Warsaw, Poland
Prague, Czech Republic  - met up with my great-uncle
Vienna, Austria
Salzburg, Austria 
Budapest, Hungary - arrived by boat down Danube River
Slovakia - passed through
Prague, Czech Republic

Helsinki, Finland

I flew out of Tashkent on April 15th, a day later than I should have.  I had "stumbled out of the gate" in a very embarrassing way the previous day, the actual day of my flight, when I realized I could not find my airline ticket.  I was at the airport in the wee hours of the morning, and a number of my Uzbek friends and students were there to see me off.  When the ticket fiasco occurred, I got very red in the face, and explained that I had to come back the next day instead after procuring a replacement ticket.  But I told them not to dare come out again to see me off!  None did!  Funny thing is, the evening of the day I missed my flight, I ended up finding my ticket in my carry-on, and actually had it at the airport with me the whole time!  I felt beyond embarrassed, and told no one!  To make matters a little worse, when I arrived in Moscow for my connecting flight to Helsinki, I had no transit visa to get from Airport 1 to Airport 2!  In the end, after almost having a panic attack, I was given permission to be carried by car, driven by an airport official, to Airport 2.  Thankfully I made my connecting flight!

When I arrived in Helsinki, on April 17th, it was still cold.   I took a bus into the city center, near market square. I don't recall having a guidebook or having really researched anything.  Although I had been e-mailing for a couple of years, this was long before the Internet had grown into what it is today.  After half-heartedly looking for a hostel, I decided to get a room at Hotelli Seurahuone Helsinki for one night. The hotel was less ritzy than it looks today, but it was in the heart of the city, right close to the port where I would take the hydrofoil to Tallinn, Estonia the next day.  I had no contacts in Helsinki, and had no idea about what I wanted to there.  If only I had had this article, the experience would have been different.  Therefore, I mainly just walked around the city center and into shopping centers. I grabbed a burger and some fries - yes, an American meal!!! - and stayed close to the hotel.  The hotel TV, unlike most hotels in the US at the time, had an "adult movie" channel that, if you watched for 30 seconds, would stay permanently on and you'd get charged the $10 or so on your hotel bill the next morning.  What kind of young man could resist that marketing device?!?!?  I couldn't!

My plan was to leave the very next day for Tallinn.  In retrospect, traveling alone like I was, at the baby age of 23, I was experiencing both exhilaration and unease.   I was enjoying the freedom and the adventure that lay ahead, but at the same time longed for a travel companion or friend.  I was already eagerly looking forward to meeting my great-uncle in Prague, who'd be arriving at the airport to travel with me for a couple of weeks.

The next morning, the day of my departure, I walked to the Central Railway Station, which was near my hotel, just to look around.  I do remember it was very early in the morning, and there were not many the people there.  However, one thing that startled me was a man who walked up to this other gentleman, shouted at him, and then simply walked away.  The other gentleman remained composed and still, and just didn't react.  I left quickly.  Back at the hotel I pigged out on cheeses, sliced meats, yogurts, bread and cold cereal.  I then checked out and walked to Market Square and the nearby port.

Arriving at the port, I bought a ticket for an afternoon speedboat to Estonia.  I was going to arrive in the capital city Tallinn in the early evening.  But before I boarded the boat, I had a couple of hours to kill.  I enjoyed walking around Market Square, especially the areas where you could buy fresh fish and produce of all sorts.  I remember the strawberries in particular looking very red and juicy.  There were also kiosks and counters where you could buy delicious baked goods, chocolates and fresh coffee.  I was mesmerized by the whole experience, and don't even know if I bought anything or not.  It was a super busy, and felt unsure about attempting to order when they wouldn't really understand.  I just remained a voyeur!  The thrill of simply observing was fascinating enough!

I boarded the boat at the scheduled time, took my seat and contemplated what I'd do next.  In the big area where I was sitting, there was a huge TV monitor.  This video was being played very loudly, and I thought the lyrics were catchy and the dance beat was cool.

Tallinn, Estonia

Source

The afternoon express boat from Helsinki put me in Tallinn at a reasonable time of day.  I was able to walk from the port to the Old Town.  I loved the cobblestone streets, medieval architecture, and the overall vibe of the place.  The weather was warmer and the people seemed excited going from work to cafes and university to parks.  My walking took me up some stairs and into a cemetery that overlooks part of the city below.  I enjoyed the stroll past tombstones, and even remember sitting on a bench to relax a bit.  Eventually I worked way back to the street level, and used a map to find Hotel Dorell, where I checked in for two nights. 

Overall I was very impressed with Tallinn and how developed and modern it seemed vis-à-vis other ex-Soviet republics.  Of course, I had only been to three other former Soviet Republics, and my perception was influenced by Western notions and news press that these tiny Baltic nations were more prosperous now that they were free of burly ole Russia and perhaps historically more industrious and independent due to their capitalist past and their proximity to Finland.

In the Old Town, cafes and restaurants of all types were bustling with business. I ate some pastries, did some window shopping, and strolled through some parks.  Near a university, I stood around with some students, absorbing everything around me.  I struck up a conversation an American guy who was in Tallinn working - probably teaching English.  There was a part of me that immediately, after talking to him, thought, "I could live here." 

In the Old Town and in other parts of Tallinn where I wandered around, people watching was my sport!  The women were gorgeous and fashionably dressed.  Many had blonde hair and were very tall and had beautiful facial features.  Only later did I learn that the people were mixed over the centuries - the Finns, the Swedes, the Russians, the Poles, the Germans - and this mixing produced some very attractive stock.  There was a lot of eye candy!

I watched a Hollywood movie at a theater.  It was subtitled in the local language, and played in English.  I felt at home! 

When I had the chance, I went into a big department store and used my credit card to buy a blue jacket that I would wear further south as I traveled.  I also wore it back home in the USA for many years, keeping it way past the "throwing away date" simply because I had bought while in Tallinn.  It was a memento!

It seemed like at least a couple of times I found a spot in the lobby of the nicest international hotel in Tallinn to rest and watch some NBA basketball on TV.

My mode of transportation out of Estonia to Latvia was by train.  I bought a ticket on the night train, in a sleeper compartment to be shared with another passenger - someone I didn't know.  Before boarding the train, I had a meal, by myself, in a Chinese restaurant at the station.  The food was good!!!!

Riga, Latvia

I arrived in Riga, Latvia after taking the overnight train.  On the train I shared a sleeper cabin with a guy named Alec, whose hometown was Riga.  Over the course of the evening, and during dinner, we had some good conversation.  The following morning, when I arrived in Riga, he said he'd show me around the city.  First, we stopped off at a café near the train station.  I got a breakfast item and something to drink.  From there, I simply followed Alec around the town, where I saw lovely architecture and walked on brick paved squares.  Not long after, Alec left, and I was my own.  Much like Estonia and Finland, I had done little research on Latvia, and was mainly seeing it as a "passing thru point" on my way to Prague, where I would meet Uncle Jim.  As a result, I pretty much stayed - for the day - near the beautiful river winding through Riga.  I could see this beautiful suspension bridge. There was a hotel where I would hang out, reading a USA Today.  There was also a McDonalds nearby, and I went there to read and pass time.  I was waiting to catch the overnight train to Lithuania.  I did get out a bit and walk down some cobblestone streets.  I do remember eyeing a coffee shop and bakery and seeing that there were no tables where patrons would sit down.  Instead, there was a counter near the window and there a few high tables in bakery, but no chairs.  People would order their baked goods and coffee, eat standing up, likely next to strangers, and then they'd be out the door, coffee in hand.  I remember thinking the concept was cool.  The aroma coming from the bakery was heavenly and the flow of people in and out the door was fascinating.  Because of language issues and fears of having to go in there on my own and likely being the only foreigner, I just did some viewing and kept on walking.  In retrospect, I'm very thankful I met Alec on the train and that I let him give me a walking tour of Riga.  Otherwise, I doubt could say I did anything.  Again, I chalk up my lack of adventure in the early stages of this Eastern Europe trip to youth and inexperience, and just being alone.  When you're traveling with another person you're more apt to take chances and explore more.  Nowadays, as a more seasoned and confident traveler, solo traveling is something I appreciate more, and it's an experience I find enriching.  Life is funny like that!  Nonetheless, I am a "better person" for having passed through these countries - like Estonia and Latvia - on my own, and it's an accomplishment I'm proud of.

   

w/ Alec

 

 

Here I am in a popular square in Riga's old town, wearing the blue jacket I bought in Tallinn. 
To see the square today, go to the 1:32 mark in the video above that introduces you to Riga.

 

Click here for more Riga architecture.  And here's one of the orthodox churches I saw.

 

And here's an up-to-date view of Riga's old town and the suspension bridge viewing angle I had.

SOURCE

 

Alec and I kept in touch a bit.  He called me once at the bank, once I had gotten back to America and had started working.  I was working in the savings department when the call came through.  Can't remember Alec's last name, and have no way of contacting him now, even on Facebook.

Vilnius, Lithuania

Source

 

One day I jumped on a bus.  Luckily I bought a ticket because the "ticket police" jumped on to verify that everyone had a ticket.  I got nervous, but my ticket was good.

 

I arrived in Vilnius, Lithuania by overnight train from Riga, Latvia.  I found a medieval city with incredible architecture and a strong Roman Catholic influence.  Vilnius is designed for walking.  I enjoyed the old parts and some of the new.  The old town is actually a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  I found a $10 per night hotel near the train station, where I would be leaving by train to Warsaw, Poland.  Not sure how many nights I stayed in Vilnius, but it was probably just one.  Just down from my hotel was an intersection that had various markets and cafes.  I finally got up the nerve to go all by myself into a pretty classy restaurant.  While eating some local cuisine, I got my kicks from eavesdropping on a young couple I presumed was from the states.  When you're dining all alone, in a foreign land, your brain plays some tricks on you.  Perhaps you simply get really tuned into your senses - the listening, the observing, the smelling.   In the restaurant, I also took note of a very interesting wedding party that was going on.  Another day in Vilnius, I walked through a corridor and into a courtyard, where there was a beautiful park.  I sat on an old bench - the paint was peeling - and pulled out a book from my backpack to read.  I observed pigeons flying in and out, perhaps searching for food and more likely just some green space in the city.  Later in the day, I walked to a hotel overlooking the river Neris.  Perhaps I was on the march for another USA Today newspaper!  I do remember thinking of the basketball players Sabonis and Marčiulionis, who both starred on the USSR national team and later played in the NBA.  I had become even more interested in the NBA because Michael Jordan had just recently come out of retirement.  Finally, one evening, either in Vilnius or back in Tallinn, where I had stayed a night or two, I wandered into a bar - I think, in a hotel.  I sat at the bar and ordered a coffee drink that sounded more like a dessert.  It was a actually a coffee liqueur drink.  And I wasn't expecting it to have alcohol in it.  I didn't like it.

 

The fact I stayed one night or two in Vilnius gave me the energy and focus to plan my journey on to Warsaw, Poland.  And then after Warsaw, on to Prague (Czech Republic), where I would meet Uncle Jim at the airport.

Warsaw, Poland

The overnight train to Warsaw passed through the tip of Belarus.  I had looked at a map before by my ticket, and never really considered we'd be crossing the Belarusian border.  Had I known that, especially after the experience in Russia, I would have for sure procured a transit visa.  So, when the border agents got on the train and checked our passports, I didn't have the proper stamp.  After a moment of hoping they would let it pass, I was escorted calmly off the train - we were stopped anyway for the train to be fitted for the different track width we'd be on soon in Poland - and into a crowded depot, where I had to fill out some paperwork and get a transit visa.  All along, I thought it was a "racket" of some kind, but retrospect, every country would ensure passengers had the right paperwork to enter and exit.   I forked over $30, and got the stamp in my passport.  Back on the train, I got some more rest.  When I wasn't resting, I talked with my cabin mate "Richard," a math teacher from Lithuania who enjoyed discussing politics and basketball.  Initially, when I met Richard and greeted him in Russian, he quickly tried to teach the Lithuanian word for 'hello' and promptly started talking about the present-day tension between Russians living in Lithuania and the majority Lithuanian population.  I just remember trying to sleep on train, and not feeling so well.  Had a massive headache.  The train being jerked around (from the fitting of "new" wheels) and the whole visa thing certainly didn't help.  In the end, though, I arrived in Poland, in the capital city of Warsaw. Before exiting the train station, I went ahead and purchased my ticket to Prague, where I was supposed to meet in a couple of days.  I was staring up the arrivals/departure board, and all the city names were in Polish, and a few were in English.  It was just overwhelming.  A lady, likely Polish  and having just arrived perhaps on the same train, walked up and asked if she could help me.  And I let her.  I got my ticket, walked out of the train station and tried to figure out what to do next.

I walked out the station, and one of first buildings I saw was the "friendship gift" Stalin had presented to Poland after World War Two, and after they were swallowed up by the victorious Soviet Union.  Poland was now an ally of the USSR, and Stalin had a replica of one his wedding cake towers built in Warsaw - the Palace of Culture and Science.  I believe it's still the tallest building in the capital city.  I recall seeing a dirty KFC franchise near the tower, and I thought it looked very out of place.   Now, either in Warsaw or Prague, my next stop, I spotted a very modern Holiday Inn.  I went in and had a tremendous breakfast buffet.  Absolutely loved it.  And it gave me a chance to relax and plot my next steps.

In Warsaw, I ended up finding a moderately priced hotel.  That afternoon and evening, I walked within a 1-2 mile radius of the hotel, and I thought about going into the Old City, and perhaps seeing the area where Warsaw uprising took place. I ultimately did neither.  Again, I can chalk it up to being alone.  Also, I didn't have a guidebook or much background knowledge, both of which might have given me that extra motivation.  It's a weird thing:  You're in a foreign, rich in history, yet you play it too conservatively.  I did just that.  Language barriers, and the hassles I had just on the train from Lithuania had also zapped me of my energy and enthusiasm.  I was mainly focused on meeting my uncle at the Prague airport in a couple of days.  The architecture and people I saw in Warsaw were interesting, and I'm sure I found something good to eat.  I do remember coming back to my hotel, and underneath my door, someone had put a business card for an escort service.  The word 'escort' had really just been introduced into English as a nicer word for prostitute.  Having "the service" so overtly advertised was a new thing for me.

Prague, Czech Republic

I arrived in Prague, where I was scheduled to meet Uncle Jim at the airport.  I made it to the airport and waited for him in the arrivals area.  I was standing up on a second floor, looking down at the baggage conveyor belt.  And then he appeared!  After we said our 'hellos' we figured out how to get to an apartment that Uncle Jim had arranged for our stay.  We were scheduled to stay in Prague for a few days, and we needed to be in a section of town where we could walk to the main sights.  We had no concrete, structured tour itinerary of any kind.  We had no locals to meet.  A guide book and some brochures were all we had, and that was enough.  Uncle Jim brought a video camera he'd borrowed from someone back home, and we were excited about using it to record our experiences.

The first chance we got, we walked down to Wenceslas Square, a historical brick-paved road lined with restaurants, museums, art galleries and coffee houses.  It was the place to be, for tourists and locals alike.   Just off the square were stone walking bridges that spanned the Vltava River.  The Charles Bridge, in particular was very popular.  Centuries old, it connected the old part of Prague with the new.  Incidentally, the new part is more than 700 years old!  On the bridge, there were young lovers holding hands and there were artists painting portraits of people's faces - people who agreed to sit for a period of time.  The atmosphere on the Charles Bridge, and the view looking at the river and back at the square, where you have lovely National Museum at one end, was as beautiful as anything I had seen to that point in my life.  Walking back down the square boulevard, past the knight on horseback statue, we searched for a place to eat that first evening.  We wanted something local, and so we took a chance on a restaurant in a medieval-style tavern (basement level) of a large historical building facing the boulevard.  We made our way down, and discovered the restaurant was a white table cloth one!  Instead of walking back out, we sat at a table.  We were hungry and tired.  Luckily our waiter spoke some English.  With his help, we ordered a few dishes.  The restaurant's specialty was wild game dishes.  For many years after, on up to today even, I would place this dining experience as one of my favorites ever.  We might have tried pheasant or wild boar or venison.  I can't exactly remember.  But I do know it was exceptionally delicious.  We had some bread and some vegetable sides that rounded off the game dishes perfectly.  Maybe some mashed potatoes, Prague style.  Really, really good.  When the check came, it was fairly expensive.  I was just fortunate that Uncle Jim picked up the tab!

I remember two more activities we did in Prague.  Maybe more will come to me later.  One day we went to a spa.  I didn't know it at the time, but spas in the Czech Republic are typically unisex and clothing optional.  In fact, if you're wearing clothing, it's very strange.  I found out the club was unisex when I was sitting in the dry heat sauna.  Buck naked and on my towel, I was sitting there, ridding my body of toxins and excess fat.  In walked a middle-aged woman, completely naked, and she proceeded to lie down on a towel right next to me.  Imagine being raised Southern Baptist, in country that's very modest and very puritanical compared to Europe, and then have that experience I had.  Well, let's just say, I adapted quite easily!  Another activity we did was shopping.  Uncle Jim wanted to buy some things for his siblings back home.  And I was thinking of something for Mother, and maybe Dad.  So we ended up shopping for Bohemian crystal, glassware that's very popular in Prague.  We made some buys and shipped them back to the USA.

Another memory I have is seeing big groups of people (mostly young men) decked out in orange, shouting slogans and cheering wildly, as they consumed beer after beer at one of the outdoor beer gardens in Prague.  I discovered later that it had something to with football (soccer).

Here's some Bohemian crystal I bought in Prague.  On the left is a vase I gave Mother.  The purple glass piece was something I got for me.  I put tea lights candles in it whenever I need some ambiance.

And below is another purple glass piece - slightly larger than the one above.  This one I gave Mother as a gift.