Steaks & Seafood

All I can say is that I likely had my best steak experiences ever in Buenos Aires, and I def had a Top 5 seafood experience in Chile. - 2016 message

The Best Steakhouses in Buenos Aires: A Beefy Guide to Eating Steak in Argentina

La Olla

Can't Do All

Hey Allen,

Don’t know if this is on your agenda but it's listed as one of the 25 most beautiful places on earth: Torres Del Paine National Park-Chile.

Enjoy,

Rimson

That is a lovely area, and we had considered going down there and even to Easter Island, which is five hours out in the Pacific. In the end, though, we decided to add on Buenos Aires instead. Truly, to cover just Chile in just a decent way, including a short trip to Southern Patagonia (in your photo), you would need a month. And for serious outdoor folks, you could spend two weeks just in Southern Patagonia. I had researched a few of the hikes way down there, but they were too advanced. But while we're skipping Torres Del Paine National Park, we are doing some really interesting outdoor activities. Today we're hiking 9 miles (total) in a national park two hours east of Santiago, where we will see a glacier in the Andes Mtns. Then in a couple of days, we are flying south to Lakes District, which is in Northern Patagonia. Besides lakes, there are four or five volcanoes, waterfalls and islands where penguins nest. Should be fun, but doable for us!! We are tired merely from using the metro! - 2/10/16

Chile

Feb 9, 2016

pluses so far

in mid-70s every day

lots of gorgeous women (European and European/indigenous mix are standouts), butts range from larger latina size to tight and firm

people are friendly, helpful, smiling, flirtatious, happy, talkative  (even ones wanting to pick your pocket!)

markets full of the sweetest fruits (strawberries, cherries and nectarines are superb)

lots of people using the metro, walking, biking, rollerblading.....folks more fit than back home

super efficient crosswalk lights and polite driver etiquette make it easy and safe for walking

 

minuses

American Airlines lost our luggage.  Received a day and half after landing.

Airbnb apartment pics really distorted what truly exists.  50% accurate

Put a few more videos up on Youtube, and will trying uploading some every few days.

Feb. 14, 2016

Saw your friend's pics.  Interesting.  We are actually in Northern Patagonia right now, in the city of Puerto Varas.  Tomorrow we are heading down to Chiloe Island for a couple of nights.  En route, we pass the town of Ancud.  An hour from there, it's the only place in the world where two species of penguins nest together.  Your friend's photos, based on the research I've done, come from another spot in Chile, maybe in Southern Patagonia, or maybe Easter Island or a place north of Santiago.  Unfortunately for us, due to a tight schedule, we have had to sacrifice a few things.  The penguins are not on our to-do list, but hope we don't live to regret it.  We have a nice city walking tour of the historic town Castro tomorrow, and then an all-day hike in a nat'l park.  After that, our focus is going to be on trying to make sure we don't miss our bus and ferry ride back to where we are now, so we can catch our flight to Buenos Aires.  We have eight nights there.  Feeling a  bit overwhelmed at the moment, but a day or two by the apartment pool in Palermo ought to help us relax.

Ideally, to truly cover two or three areas of Chile in a quality fashion, you need 3-4 weeks.  A good six weeks would allow you to check off the entire country.  Of course, enthusiasts and real travelers would say 3-4 months are needed!  But who has that kind of time?!?!?  One thing is for sure, however:  Chile, from the desert in the north to the central wine region to Patagonia in the south, has a lot of everything.  A very blessed country!  Mountains, glaciers, lakes, volcanoes, islands, beaches, deserts and penguins!!!

Take care.

Allen

Feb. 15, 2006

Weather in Puerto Varas was not the best. Volcanos were not visible. Today we're down on Chiloe Island, and the sun is out. Doing a 3 hour city tour in a couple of hours, and then tomorrow we are doing an all-day trek in a national park. Due to a tight (or tightened) schedule, we are having to miss the penguins! lol But officially, the last few days we have been in Patagonia. It's just that Southern Patagonia gets the most press.

Feb. 16, 2006

We're staying in a palafito (stilt house) on Chiloe Island in Northern Patagonia (Chile). Our back deck is out over the water and small tour boats cruise slowly up and down throughout day while we sip wine, soak up the sun and hang dry clothes! 

Today we hiked Punta Pirulil (the mountain/peninsula in photo 3, background) - virtually the entire length shown in the photo, out and back. That's the Pacific Ocean, btw. Punta Pirulil is significant in these parts because a native tribe once believed that after you die it is where your soul goes to be transported from this world to the next. The pier or bridge (photos 4 and 5) is a representation of this legend. Luckily for me it was not my time yet!

Although we did not see any penguins, certain family might enjoy knowing we caught a glimpse of some sunbathing sea lions. Unluckily for the sea lions, they eventually become dinner for the Orcas. 

Adios!

Allen

Feb 22, 2016

btw, have had a few MJ experiences in South America. In Santiago, someone was selling some MJ artwork. And on our last night in Puerto Montt in Chile, in the lobby where we were drinking our complimentary Pisco Sours, a Jam remix was played, and was followed by Don't Stop Till You Get Enough.

Café con piernas

"coffee with legs"

source

We saw one and looked inside.  Been exhausted the past couple of days.  Walked 8 miles one day and 10 miles the very next! 

Flew to the Lakes District today.  Staying six nights.  Planning to eat a Chilean BBQ at a local restaurant this evening, relax tomorrow and then do a big all-day hike (tour) on Sunday.

- Feb 2016

To learn what a "coffee with legs" is, click here.

Chile Tips

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● from 2016 e-mails ●

We went to Valparaiso and beaches a bit north and south of there.  The ones south are a bit more beautiful.  Hold on to your wallet in Val.  With your daughter being there and a family helping, should have no problems.  In between Valparaiso and Santiago are some fabulous wineries.  I would recommend at least one!  Santiago is also interesting.  You can also take day hiking tours outside Santiago.  Definitely recommend the San Francisco Glacier.  If you need a guide, I know a very reliable and trustworthy local, and an outdoor tour company that is superb.  You will have an awesome time. We spent about 20 days there, and eight in Argentina.  Great escapes! 

The guides I know specialize in day trips out of town, especially nature trips.  Chile has so much to offer.  The company name is Hike Chile.  They are a little pricey, but good.  I also know a guy who works with a company and he does trips on the side.  They are less expensive that way.  If you want to hike, ride horses or do some other activity while you're in Santiago, this guy is worth it, as is Hike Chile.  If you are staying in Valparaiso the entire time, I would research tour companies in that city.   Trip Advisor will give you ideas, and the reviews are very helpful.  You can take free walking tours in Valparaiso and Santiago.  However, if you are dealing with your big family unit (4 or more), I would think it's best to pay for private tours, which include a guide, driver and vehicle.

The biggest tip I could give you - and I don't know your travel experience, who's going with you and their ages, the age of the daughter studying there, or how much research you have done already - is take safety precautions seriously in Santiago and especially Valparaiso, which may have the worst reputation for pick pocketing and theft in South America.  Read what you can online and in guidebooks for safety tips before you go.  You don't have to worry about your physical safety (unless in wrong places at night), but anytime of the day your wallets, handbags, shopping bags, luggage, wallets, passports and smartphones could be snatched.  So be smart.  iPhones are particularly popular, and if you and your kids have them out like you do here, believe me, someone will look for an opportunity.  They are known to identify targets and wait for a time to walk up and snatch a phone right our of your hands! We bought a tiny camera with wrist strap at Best Buy for our outdoor photos and kept our smart phone in our pocket, only pulling it out when it was absolutely safe, or in a coffee shop or restaurants.  Backpacks are easy pickings for thieves.  They can be cut open in crowded spots. 

We had nothing stolen, and I didn't even detect the possibility.  However, I read all the warnings and used my years of experience to limit the chances.  A lady I know from Asheville - her husband has his wallet and passport stolen on the metro in Santiago.  But again, I emphasize that Val has a horrible reputation.  If you are smart (not paranoid) and sure of of your day's plans and don't stick out so much, you will be fine.  The key is reading up, taking precautions and utilizing the tour companies to take you around.  They will be your security, too.

Good luck.  Chile is one of my fav countries!!!!

Start of Journey

Use the map to see our itinerary.  You can open a new window, enlarge, zoom and click on sites for details.  We arrived in Santiago, ready to go.  Our checked luggage didn't make it, however.  It was lost in Miami!   Fortunately, it was recovered and sent to our apartment in Santiago the next day. Anyway, we were picked up at the airport by our driver (holding a funny sign!) and taken to our Airbnb apartment. Spent the first afternoon walking a bit around the neighborhood (in Providencia) and stocking up on some essentials for the kitchen.  Enjoyed seeing all the rollerbladers and bicyclists out having a good time.  It's an active city, I could quickly tell.  The time difference in Chile was not significant - just two hours ahead of us in the Eastern USA.  

My cover was immediately exposed!

Venturing Out

On our first full day in Santiago we headed to the city's main square (at least for tourists!) with the idea of joining one of the city's free walking tours.  We looked and looked for the tour guide holding up a sign at the designated hour, yet couldn't find them.  I had a particular tour company in mind, and had researched them thoroughly on the Internet long before we even arrived in Santiago.  We searched all over, but we couldn't find them.  After asking for some help, we then walked down to another possible meeting spot, and yet still no luck.  I was frustrated, and it was very hot.  I was already thinking about the negative review of the tour company I would put on TripAdvisor!  We ended up walking by ourselves, in the direction of San Cristobal Hill, and just made the best of the day.  Now the funny thing is, sometime the next day or the day after, we realized our smartphones, which we rely on for keeping up with the time, did not automatically reset once we arrived in Chile. We were a full two hours off!  And that explains the mix-up with the tour company.  Thank goodness I did not send in that review!

Some notes from an email

pluses so far

in mid-70s every day

lots of gorgeous women (European and European/indigenous mix are standouts), butts range from larger Latina size to tight and firm

people are friendly, helpful, smiling, flirtatious, happy, talkative  (even ones wanting to pick your pocket!)

markets full of the sweetest fruits (strawberries, cherries and nectarines are superb)

lots of people using the metro, walking, biking, rollerblading.....folks more fit than back home

super efficient crosswalk lights and polite driver etiquette make it easy and safe for walking

minuses

American Airlines lost our luggage.  Received a day and half after landing.

Airbnb apartment pics really distorted what truly exists.  50% accurate

Sky Costanera - Santiago, Chile

winter view

Using Santiago's Metro

source

One of the challenges you have to overcome when visiting a foreign country where your language is not spoken is learning to use public transportation systems and deciphering the maps that help you use them. Even in your own language, when you're simply going from a city with no metro (e.g. Asheville or Charlotte) to one with an extensive network (e.g. New York City), this task can be very daunting.  So, imagine arriving in NYC and maps being in a different language, and everyone around you speaking a different language!  The stress and bewilderment get multiplied significantly.  Yet, to know a city means to really explore it.  And there's no better way to work your way around a city than to use mass transportation.  In Santiago, a city of 3 million, it was no different.  Although not nearly overwhelming as our initial struggles with metro maps in Seoul and Moscow, we had our frustrations. We walked down the metro steps very close to our apartment, and we approached one of the big wall maps.  We had a little notebook with the name of the stop where we wanted to go.  And we simply counted the number of stops from where we were.  After that, we wrote down our destination on a slip of paper, slid it under the glass at the ticket window, and then waited for the lady to tell us how much.  We signaled two tickets with our fingers.  She nodded and spoke in Spanish, which we didn't understand.  After realizing that the cash machine's register was not turned so we could read the amount, we pulled out our calculator and pushed it to her.  She smiled, keyed in the amount and then we passed her the cash.  The metro was so noisy and busy, and the line behind us (and on both sides!) was filled with locals who were in an obvious hurry.  But because we were prepared (name on paper, calculator, money ready), we moved through about as fast as anybody.  And on that first day, just overcoming that early dread and doing it, we created a system that made it easy over the next several days.  And yes, I did try on occasion, when the metro ticket window wasn't as busy, speaking the name in Spanish.  After the third attempt at this, we realized it was less worrisome for us and less irritating to them, simply to pull out the slip of paper with the name on it.  Almost always, I would get a smile.  I think they appreciated our efforts in making the transaction more efficient. Of course, after getting your ticket, the next step was finding the right line, heading in the right direction and getting off at the right spot.  Sometimes that's fairly easy (the more you do, the easier it becomes), and other times you can get really turned around.  Again, with the right partner and a bit of patience, it's very manageable.  And, you never know.... like we did on our first metro ride, you might get some help from a local.  A couple of stops before our exit, I talked with a young Indian guy - from my travel experience, I knew could speak some English -  who was super-friendly, and living and working in Santiago.  Although I was fairly confident of our stop, I used that moment to confirm it.  Everything worked out, and easily by day three we were using Santiago's metro with confidence.

You Will Know Them by Their Fruits

Desirable countries produce succulent fruits.  Chile has just about any fruit you'd like.  Of the fruits we tried, cherries, plums, watermelon and nectarines were standouts.

San Francisco Glacier

I climbed a path and from the top looked up-stream towards Chile. I could see the river, glinting and sliding through the bone-white cliffs with strips of emerald cultivation either side. Away from the cliffs was the desert. There was no sound but the wind, whirring through thorns and whistling through dead grass, and no other sign of life but a hawk, and a black beetle easing over white stones.

Bruce Chatwin

On our third day in Chile we went on a day-hike in the Andes Mountains, a little more than two hours southeast of the capital, Santiago.  We had signed up with Hike Chile several weeks before our vacation began, and I made the decision to go with them after carefully considering a number of outfitters.  Our destination:  The San Francisco Glacier at El Morado Natural Monument National Park.  Click here for TripAdvisor reviews, including mine.

a volcano

the glacier up ahead

On the drive to the park we pulled over at a mom-and-pop grocery store, where I bought some homemade bread and some delicious peach preserves (local, of course).  All I can say is, "Good choice."

After we had gotten back into the vehicle and were exiting the park, we bought ice-cold Coca-Colas from a vendor.  How refreshing!  Later, on the return to Santiago, we ate some empanadas at a local restaurant, just before stopping off at a farmers market for sweet fruits.  Our guide was superb!